Mountaineering Expeditions

Fang Mountain (6,736 feet) Denali National Park. September 1992
Attempt. This is the climb that started it all. After his first summer working in Denali Park, Troy set out on a 10-mile approach up the Savage River, solo. He carried no ropes, no hardware, and no Gore-Tex, only an external frame pack and jeans. After three days Troy turned back just at the base of the peak due to poor weather and two feet of fresh snow.

Scott Peak (8828 feet) Denali National Park, Alaska. July 1993
Summit. Using borrowed gear, Troy, Kevin Payne and Michelle O'Neil set out to tackle this peak in the heart of Denali Park. In a long weekend and spectacular weather, Troy and Kevin reached the summit without incident. A picture perfect climb, which rarely happens on this peak, due to foul weather patterns.

Mt. Pendleton (7,800 feet) Denali National Park, Alaska. June, August 1993. Summit.
In June and August Troy made attempts on Mt. Pendleton. A failed attempt with Galen Camp proved to be a necessary scouting trip. Returning in August with Collins Gilbertson, the team negotiated deep snow and a hidden crevasse field to finally reach the summit after considerable effort.

White Princess (9000 feet) Alaska Range. August 1994
Attempt. After a precarious two day trek on the Castner Glacier which was riddled with crevasses, the team set up base camp in a bowl just below the summit. During a streak of sunny weather Troy, Collins Gilbertson, and Dan Corroon made a summit push, but were nearly wiped out by car-sized ice blocks avalanching directly in their climbing route. Avoiding near disaster the team pushed higher only to be turned back late in the day by a wide, insurmountable bergschrund.

Mt. Dickey (9,545 feet) Solo Ascent, Denali Park, Alaska. 1995
Summit. Departing late in the day the large team of Collins Gilbertson, Seth Young, Matt Lindell, and Troy aborted their first attempt due to deep snow and a precarious headwall. Two days later, before sunrise, Troy departed on what would turn into his first solo climb in the Alaska Range. After negotiating an avalanche zone and ice fall he gained a southern ridge which led Troy to the summit in safety. In perfect weather Troy skied off the summit and straight down the bowl to Pittock Pass. After downclimbing the rest of the way, he reached the safety of the mountain house.

Mt. Brooks (11,940 feet) Denali Park, Alaska. June 1996
Attempt. This twelve-day expedition, found the two person team of Troy and Collins Gilbertson making in assault on this high peak in the Alaska Range. After a two day approach hike, the team arrived at base camp in white out conditions on the Muldrow Glacier, just after a very close call negotiating the glacier crossing. Despite being hampered by a severe storm that dumped three feet of fresh snow, the team made a summit bid only to be pushed back by deep snow and severe avalanche conditions. More foul weather found the team retreating to Wonder Lake via Oastler Pass. However, not without incident as the team endured gale force winds and a sketchy crossing of the swollen McKinley river bar.

Denali (20,320 feet) West Buttress, Denali Park, Alaska. May/June 1999 Summit
A picture perfect 20-day climb to the summit with Ford Reeves. The two man team waited on weather at 14,000' camp for eight days. With a questionable forecast, Troy and Ford climbed three thousand feet, back to back days. First from 14,000' to 17,000' camp. Then 17 to 20,320'. A hasty retreat and one long push got the team all the way back to base camp.

Moose’s Tooth (9,780 feet) Denali National Park. May 2000
Attempt. Solid effort put in by Troy and partner Seth Young on this trip into the Great Gorge. After climbing part way up the ridge towards the summit, the team made a hasty retreat due to bad weather, hanging seracs, and extremely dangerous conditions.

Aconcagua (22,800 feet) South America. January 2002
Attempt. With Denali partner, Ford Reeves, a 14-day expedition to Aconcagua, the highest peak in South America. Due to group dynamics the climb was abandoned after reaching a high point of Nido de Condores. Heat and altitude were also contributing factors.

Hvannadalshnukur (6952 feet), Iceland. March 2003
Attempt. An attempt on Iceland's highest peak with the Global Extremes team. Stranded in a storm and low on supplies the team turned back and descended the mountain in a whiteout and blizzard on the longest rope team ever....20 climbers.

Peak 6296 (20,750 feet), Rongbuk Glacier, Tibet. April 2003.
Summit. Acclimating climb preparing for an attempt on Mt. Everest with the Global Extremes team.

Mt. Everest (29,021 feet), Tibet. April/May 2003. North Ridge, Rongbuk Valley
Attempt. Global Extremes expedition with Russel Bryce, Chris Warner, Jesse Rickert, Ted Mahon, Colleen Inken, and Petit Pinson. After 60 days on Everest, Troy aborts his climb just above camp II at about 25,000'. Ted and Jesse persist and reach the summit several weeks later.

Pioneer Peak (6398 feet) Chugach Mountains, Alaska. May 2006
Summit. North face, solo ascent. After several aborted attempts, Troy finally reaches the summit, solo. The descent was aided with two rappels from another climbing team in the area.

Mt. Allo (Mt. Delphine) (938'), Neyt Point, Leige Island, Antarctica. January 2, 2008
Ascent of small peak overlooking the Gerlache Strait, after replicating shore landing of Belgica Expedition (1897). Because of severity of landing, ascent completed in drysuits. With Dixie Dansercoer and dinghy assist by Pieterjan Kempynck.

Celsus Peak (4511') Brabant Island, Antarctica. January 4, 2008
Ascent in clear, calm weather up standard route with Dixie Dansercoer, Laurent Dick, Pieterjan Kempynck. In the middle of a glacier Troy is reveled with Happy Birthday (41st) by the boys on the team.

Mt. Lopez (5465') Doumer Island, Antarctica. January 9th, 2008
Successful ski ascent and descent of peak overlooking Port Lockroy. With Dixie Dansercoer, Laurent Dick, Pieterjan Kempycnk.

Mt. Banck (7244') Danco Coast, Antarctica. January 12, 2008
Epic ascent of this high peak overlooking Paradise Harbour. After a difficult ascent of a rocky spine, the summit is attained with Dixie Dansercoer, Laurent Dick, and Pieterjan Kempycnk.

Extreme Ham Radio Expedition, Alaska Range. June 2008
With expedition leader Dave Franco and climbing partner Marc Likenteller a foray is made into the Alaska Range and the famed Mountain House on the Ruth Glacier. Unfortunatly Dave is unable to make contact with the outside world via Ham Radio due to propagation issues and an uncooperative Ionosphere. Meanwhile Marc and Troy make a successful assault on Mt. Dickey (9,545') via the old (there is a reason it's not used anymore) standard route via Pittock Pass in 11 hours roundtrip.